Holdsworth to Kaitoke: Route Guide

By Ashley R. Clarkson
1 July, 2003

Holdsworth - Kaitoke. Difficulty: Easy-Medium Length: 36km, 16+ hours, 3 days Highest Point: Point 572, 572m Maps: S26 (Carterton) Huts: Totara Flats Hut (2 tickets), Tutuwai Hut (2 tickets)

The Holdsworth-Kaitoke tramp is a classic tramp in the Tararua Forest Park. It follows the progress of two of the major rivers in the region, the Waiohine River and the Tauherenikau River. The trip takes 2-3 days and can be walked fairly comfortably over a long weekend. However, this trip is no the walk in the park that some would have it to be. While rewarding, this trip will be infinitely easier for those in better physical condition.

Access

Access to the track is from the Mt. Holdsworth entrance of the Tararua Forest Park, about 15 km from Masterton. Follow the signposts. There is a large carpark where you can be dropped off. I recommend starting early (8am or earlier), or else staying the night at Holdsworth Lodge (just inside the Forest Park gates) before starting the tramp.

Holdsworth Carpark-Pig Flat Junction (2 hours)

The first part of the walk is the ascent of Gentle Annie, which is, well, gentle. This section of the track is well cared for with steps on the steeper parts and drains to keep down erosion of the track. The track twists and undulates for approximately 2 hours (including rests - this could be walked up in little more than an hour at a stiff pace) before reaching Pig Flat Junction.

Pig Flat Junction-Totara Creek (1 hour)

At Pig Flat Junction hang a left and make your way down the slope to Totara Creek, which provides an excellent spot for a break (and possibly lunch). This track descends steeply, and care should be taken for stray limbs and knocked down trees, particularly after a windy patch. This section of track is a little overdue for maintenance. Eventually after 1 hour or so you will reach Totara Creek (which must be crossed before having a break - why? I said so, that is why). My tramping book lists this as a 20 minute descent. Codswallop. The only way to make it down that fast is to run the whole way, or sprout wings and fly down.

Totara Creek-Totara Flats Hut (2 hours)

Here you are faced with a choice - either walk down the creek until it meets up with the Waiohine River, or walk down the track. Either way is not really any quicker, although by taking the track you will have to negotiate tree limbs, and in one case, an entire tree (no, you cannot move it) the width being approximately half my height. At any rate, this basically flat and level track is nothing to be worried about. You may lose the track at one stage due to erosion - jump down onto the streambed and follow it all the way or carry on down the streambed for a bit and carry on. Also possible to lose the track again during one of the few climbs which you can make up for by climbing straight up to meet up with the track again - if you run into the problem, just scout around. The track is never far away. Eventually this part of the track reaches its maximum height for the day, and descends sharply (and sharply is meant very seriously) down to about par with the creek. Simply climb down using the limbs of the large tree. Note that you will cross a few interesting but really insubstantial creeks on your way, and after a final 10-20 minutes you will arrive at the swing-bridge across the Waiohine, which swings magnificently, especially in higher winds. Hang a right immediately after crossing the bridge and walk a few metres to the brand new (March 2003) Totara Flats Hut (sleeps 20), based at the site of the original Totara Flats Hut (true right of the river).

Totara Flats - Makaka Creek (2 hours)

Walk out the back door of the hut and follow the tracks past the long drops to meet back up with the track, and follow it out onto the flats themselves. You can follow the track as it wanders fairly easily through grassy flats to the bush edge near the bottom of the flats. The track then walks in and out of bush back onto flats for about 30 minutes or so, before eventually ending up at a major creek. Cross the creek and continue on your way, making sure to avoid the wet weather route unless you absolutely need to. Taking the wet weather route wastes an easy hour and results in tired legs from a stiff climb around and over a slip (which has even now taken out the top part of the wet weather track and requires bushwhacking up and around to meet up again with the track before heading down to the river floor. The track then proceeds for another hour or so crossing a few creeks until meeting the mighty Makaka Creek, which is easy enough to cross unless the rain has been tipping down - then you beware. Stop for a little break and a breather once crossing the river. Trust me, you will soon need it.

Makaka Creek to Cone Saddle (2 hours minimum)

This part of the track is the real gut-wrencher, and takes up 2-3 hours of the day. Having climbed up to the junction from the Makaka Creek, begin walking up the hill to Point 572. This is a steep, fairly unrelenting climb and can take ages, particularly if you must stop for the less fit/weaker members of your party (we promote Spartan values here). After finally reaching the top of Point 572 (If you do this in less than an hour, I salute you) follow the track as it slowly works its way around Clem Creek and its tributaries. Rumour is there is good hunting in this area, but don't take my word for gospel. The track drops down about 50 metres before picking up 20 or so before finally reaching Cone Saddle. The water is good in this area and if you need a drink you will not need to worry about puri-tabs. At least, I didn't and I was fine. There is a high likelihood that you will come across fallen trees here - it seems they fall everywhere but the track. Take a short break at cone saddle and then pick up your pack and carry on.

Cone Saddle to Tutuwai Hut (2 hours maximum)

The drop from Cone Saddle to Cone Hut is a hectic rush down the hill, sidling around will consistently shedding altitude for around 40-50 minutes before it drops to the Tauherenikau valley floor and walks on for 5 more minutes to the shabby looking, old Cone Hut. This is a spot for an afternoon break, or if the light has escaped you, a place of last refuge. It is certainly not an attractive hut, well run down with very little in the way of facilities (no water, for instance, get it from the river). It is constructed from Totara however, and is an example of early huts in the Ranges (and should be up-kept as a site of historical value).

After a short break for a breather, carry on down the track to Tutuwai Hut (1 hour). The track follows the river downstream on the true left of the river, veering in slightly through the bush-line. Pretty flat, and can be walked very easily in little or no light (use torches, obviously). Tutuwai Hut sits on a hill, about 5 metres above the track. It is reached when you come out into a small clearing, where the track forks into two. You should notice the hut if you happen to look at anywhere apart from the track when you walk. Tutuwai Hut is an older style two ticket hut, with mattresses, a good fire, water facilities and best of all, gas facilities, so you can cook quickly and then hit the sack.

Tutuwai Hut to Smiths Creek (3 Hours)

The next morning, hop into gear for the last day of the walk. Half of the day will be consumed by walking down the Tauherenikau Valley, which usually leaves you reaching Smiths Creek at around lunchtime. Progress on this part of the track is generally pretty quick, as it does not climb more than 20 metres above the river at any one time. The first part of the walk continues down the true left of the river, for approximately 30 minutes, until you reach the swingbridge across the river (very new, very cool - it does not really swing at all). From here it is another 2.5 hours down the true right bank of the river, climbing up and down and crossing a few streams on your way. The track occasionally meets up with link tracks to the Marchant Ridge well above on the right (the descent from the Southern Crossing walks along this ridge). Most of the streams are easy to cross, although Marchant Stream poses a slight difficulty (a wire across the stream provides some help), and there are one or two patches where the track is a bit tricky. Eventually the track flattens out completely and parts company with the Tauherenikau River (which diverts to flow down a gorge and out into the Wairarapa - you crossed it on your way to the start of the track if you came over from Wellington via the Rimutaka Hill Road), progressing onwards until Smiths Creek is reached. Here you have the option of breaking for lunch at one of the camping sites (a good option on a hot, fine, windless day) or popping into the Smiths Creek Shelter (no facilities, loo nearby, water from the river). At any rate, the tramp is nearly over, so enjoy a nice lunch before hitting the last part of the track.

Smiths Creek to Kaitoke (2 hours)

Hop back on the track and begin the last part of the track. At first this is flat, but quickly climbs and deviates to avoid a nasty slip that wiped out part of the track. Eventually you drop back down on the other side (about 20 minutes) and carry on walking along the flat for another 30 minutes before you start the climb up Puffer Saddle. One wonders whether the person who named this part of the track did so with irony, for after a long tiring tramp this can make you puff quite readily. Eventually you will reach the top of the saddle where there are excellent views of the farms and surrounding area (30 minutes). The track then weaves down the other side to the Kaitoke carpark (40 minutes), where you can be picked up by your ride and move on (access to the Kaitoke entrance is from the Marchant Road - signposted).